Spain-France-Home
2024 May/June (BikePacking)

In 2024 at the end of May and for first few weeks of June I ventured again further afield for a self-planned, solo bike packing tour from Northern Spain through France. I after last year's Spain trip I was hooked and needed to go nack. Once more an incredible experience, incredible places and people.  Here's is the story... 

Wed 22nd May ...evening...

Caberet on the ferry... ! Eeek, something else. But, no fear, seen dolphins & a whale! The whale was right at the end of the watch in the sunset. Magical! Saw it surface & flume a few times.  The last one was with sunset reflecting on its back & in its flume. Luckily few people also saw it so we could log it with Orca watch. Unclear what variety. A first for me all the same.

It has been a good crossing, varied weather but smooth seas. I have met lots of nice people, none of who can believe what I am about to do! I agreed.

Cabaret just finished. Phew. Bedtime.

Thu 23rd May, 5pm Txopas bar Manduka

Watching the locals go about their early evening, hive of activity, all ages. This is a surfy town due to where it is on an estuary of a large river.

Left the ferry at Bilbao and headed out of the city, half of me wanting to go back as I really enjoyed it last year. Ride was urban, suburbs, cycle routes along main roads until I turned on a b-road then up a track. After causing a scene with all the local hounds (thank god they were behind fencing), the track gave way to overgrown and steep trail. I pushed & heaved and saw I was off track so turned around. The dogs erupted again which caused a local to come out. He didn't speak English but seeing as we all speak phones and maps these days, he looked shocked and said no no no... mountain danger... eek, that was a close one! I then made my way more conventionally by road to Bakio, my first of many towns on the coast. Nice place and very much out of season. Give it a month and this whole area will quadruple in people, if not more.

Then onto San Juan of Gaztelugatxe, a small church on a rapid outcrop with a winding staircase up. Quite a site and I got a perfect vantage point, so had lunch there (rude not to).

Then it was a lovely downhill on quiet road into Bermeo. I first heard of this town in the Tour De France a summer ago. Le Grand Depart was from Bilbao and Bermeo featured on route. I remember Ned the cycle commentator saying how nice it was as he stayed there many times for the La Vuelta. Cyclists names still on the roads, made me feel good.

Bermeo a colourful and lively coastal town with marina and bars. Good in the sun.

Then onto the campsite. Small boring pitch but won't know much about it tonight, I am shattered. Where I am now is about a 5 mins cycle over massive hill. So bit more sight seeing, bit of grocery shopping and home for an early first night.

Fri 24th May, 5.45 in Ondarroa

This place is buzzing. Friday evening and the world is out. Noise, families, impromptu 3 peace playing folk. Everywhere you look are signs about Basque rights and freedom. The flag flies proudly and the call for independence are fierce in their graffiti. Vibrant bunch.

Here and now is so different to the tranquil and beautiful places seen today. After helping some French campers with lighting their gas burner, a quick au revoir and I was on my way. Started off heading down busy main road, soon giving way to country road, then track, the building site. Scratched my head, must have look perplexed as the builder came over to see if I was either OK, or to tell me to sling my hook. No English but again, looking at maps and gesturing train tracks (tren) and bridges (feunta) he did me proud and got me out of a pickle.

After the tren crossing it was walking time through a nature reserve. Reed beds and wooden platforms brought me to feunta. Getting the hang of this Spanish :-)

Saw my first storks nesting and turkey vultures soaring of the trip. Sat on the bright brewing a coffee, very tranquil. Then followed an amazing coastal road for the rest of the day. Initially looking back over to Mandaka and Bermeo from yesterday, as my route had taken me down the length of the estuary and back up the other side.

Less populated and more remote in feel. Lovely beaches, I had to have a paddle. Stopped at Laida, Laga (for paddle) and Lakieto. All the Ls today, how strange. The coastal road had lots of climbs and the settled into a rolling rhythm about 500 ft up above the sea through eucalyptus and pine forests. Occasionally the trees gave way to spectacular views up the coast east and north to where I assume San Sebastian lives. The rich blurs of the bay of bisque and the clear sky were mesmeric.

And then, out of the forests and a steep descent I came into a landing in Ondarroa. Seems to be a fishing coastal town judging by the boats and murals. I made my way to a very relaxed campsite, got everything sorted and locked the bike up so could come into town. And here I am!

Not sure of the plan now. Follow my nose as always!

Sun 26th May, 9am in San Sebastian

Chilling in appartment have finally worked out the coffee machine. A lot to catch up on, so made myself a large one.

Friday evening in Ondarroa continued with a bar by a river in the sun, overlooking a long  boat like horizontal mast from the river bank to the middle of the river, a cucaña or greasy pole! Local game of skill used during festivals. Unfortunately it was not a festival today! Then I got some provisions and went back to campsite for dinner. About 9ish I went to beach to watch the sunset, initially shocked as I hadn't realised it was a naturalist beach!

Saturday turned to be an epic ride and push. Started of 8ish on the coastal road and a long uphill section, climbing about 400 meters,  which the Garmin directed me off of onto a concrete farm track. After negotiating an unhappy farm dog (one of many in these parts but luckily most are chained up), the route went steeply down, into a forest until it ran out at a train line and water treatment plant. Garmin said go straight over train track. But straight was a very vague, overgrown footpath. Nearly decided to backtrack, but couldn't face that hill or the dog so pushed on, literally. I made it through the undergrowth to a hiking trail. I had to push, lift heave and drag the bike for around an hour. Some of the sections were hard enough to hike, let along bike-hike. It reminded me of Padley Gorge in the Peaks. The path eventually became a forestry track chewed up by forestry vehicles and another concrete track. The views through the trees to the coast and cliffs were incredible, and stayed with me most of the day. At the end of the concrete track I spluttered my way into a car park by the bins, with a startled and bemused looking local throwing his rubbish away. I smiled, he grimaced. Then to compound the indignity, two lady trail runners stormed past me from where I had come. The car park was for a hotel, a cafe! Timely! Excited! Closed!!! However, there was a campsite next door with a shop and they were so welcoming. This had an amazing view, coupled with an amazing ice cream.

The owner was into cycling, had great English and we chatted for sometime about my route today and next few weeks. He loved my bike setup and said he had done a lot of touring but family life with little ones has put it on hold for now. Met his family and little girl, such a wonderful place to grow up I thought. He advised against immediate next section with my bike but showed me a longer route that got further along. This was another great downhill, across the train tracks again and to a farm with more angry dogs which gave way to a coastal path.

Now the next 90 mins of bike pushing was like the Dorset coastal path. Sublime views and painfully steep paths making you pay your dues for those views. At times I had to remove the paniers to get by certain sections. Rocks, gnarly roots, downed trees, bare rock sections, slippery boggy sections..  yep, it had it all. At times I though just what the fuck am I doing. 54 in the middle of nowhere, in a foreign land with just myself to trust. God I am pleased I didn't have someone else with me as I would gave totally understood if they had lost it with me. Still, I am a resilient git if nothing else and surprised myself at both my physical and mental strength to get through this section and later ones in the day.

Finally I was able to ride some bits, eventually reaching the summit and an awesome downhill through vineyards, passing many hikers and some horesriders as well as a few mountain bikers. Loads of Holas and Alez Alez. This bought me into Zumaia, another pretty coastal town.

The next section was weaving and winding coastal road. It was getting hot and a head wind made it a challenge. But with pumped up tyres and pleased to no longer be pushing, I made swift progress. This was full of road bikes, all wishing me good luck, there was a race on as I saw a podium in one of the towns and many riders had numbers on. I felt like Mr Bean among these athletes. I reached Orio where after a sharp uphill, I followed a river for a while. Pretty views down river to distant mountains. Then back on a busy road to a point where the directions said left, but there were concrete blocks stopping you. I managed to lift over onto the track that time forgot. Just pleased to be off the road, but another 90 mins of bikehike. It was 2pm ish now and the temperature in the 30s. This was spectacular taking me through forest, into farmland, past cows with their bells clinking, and small holdings with their various plantations of fruit and veg. Must be a tough but rewarding lifestyle. On and on the track went. At one point I stopped at a water well and covered my head with ice cold water. That and a bag of Haribo got me through this last climb of the day, for it was then the descent into San Sebastian.

It is so strange how on the journey you come from nothing to something, from rural to conurbation, from wildlife to humans. It's the Ying and Yang of the rides I do, and coming into a big city like San Seb is a huge shock and takes a while to adjust. You go from a trance like state into one of heightened awareness. Not least traffic, road furniture, stop/go signals and cycle lanes. Once adjusted though it is great fun riding somewhere like this. The route saw me right to the beach front, which was rammed with Saturday sunseekers, then into the old town, where I stopped for a beer, then though the other side of the city to where I am staying.

I met Pillar, the lady who owns the appartment. She gave me lots of tips about what to see, where to eat, how to get around. I grabbed some bits for dinner from local supermarket, did my washing, dried tent out, showered and jumped on bus into the old town. It was rammed again with Saturday dinner seekers. After soaking it up for a bit I headed back to cook dinner, watch some footy, and reflect on an epic day.

So after a good sleep and discovering the apartments excellent sound system I am recharged and ready to have a proper explore of this Basque gem of a city.

Sun 26th May, 7.30pm in San Sebastian

Back in the apartment chilling on the sofa with my favourite bluetooth speakers, bit of Nik Kershaw Human Racing... 

Non bike day covered a lot of miles on foot. Weather has changed and high pressure given way to low pressure over night! Warm but cloudy day and often wet. My first non food / drink purchase was an umbrella... from a shop that had its luck in selling to the tourists flimsy umbrellas for 6 euros... anyway needs must, and it did help me out... 

Couple of cafes first in the Gross district which were nice. Good coffee and pastries... then long walk, mainly through back roads and housing, at one point an outdoor escalator in the rain... electrics & water? Eventually gave up trying to navigate the warren of roads and tower blocks, and headed for Concha Beach. Yesterday packed with the gorgeous gods & goddesses of la sol, today, dog walkers, happy dogs and bonkers tourists!

Bare footed it along the beach, paddling in the waves on what is reputed as the best beach in the world?! Was nice mind, as no sun, felt I had the place to myself. I left the beach, bound for the funicular railway to the top of Monte Igueldo. After a short upwards move, the drizzle had gone and I was getting off the funicular and doing selfie destruction... it did prove a great move to see the San Seb at its best 👌 ... awesome vistas! Vista's juxtaposed by a kids theme park... Black Gang Chime on acid!

After a general mooch and visit to the highest point in a tower, it was time to descend back via the funicular and head to The Comb of the Wind sculptures. Heavy iron weaved into meaningful shapes that SanSeb have adopted as a moto.

After this I plucked up courage to get a taxi to Gross Brewery Tap. Local Brewery on an industrial estate out of town... sound familiar? 

Proved good move for excellent beer & a cheese burger. Also got some tips for best beer bars in town from owner. Had to leave early sadly as had bus to catch. Got back into town, chucking it down. I walked smugly thinking, yeah l, I have an umbrella!

I wondered the old town another time, this time in heavy rain, gave up trying to find a pit stop. Rain cleared so I walked on from old town around the headland and back to the marina ,eventually re-joining my start point.

Having seen Old Town a lot, I headed to Gros, the area Pilar suggested. I found the Basqueland brewery tap and spent a fair bit of time sampling the beers. They hold many nationsl gold awards for their beers. I tried a few and they were pukka. I ended on a small imperial triple black ipa... delicious...

At this time I had had enough so found something for tea and headed back to apartment. Strange that drinking solo is easier than eating solo. Besides, back on the bike tomorrow, so back to the plan! A hell of a long way still to go. Tomorrow will have left Spain and crossed into France, Olympic host of 2024 🏅

Mon 27th May, 6.40pm in Bayonne, France 

Yep have moved country today and the sun's come back. Sitting enjoying an IPA and Rabas De Calimari at a bar by the river. Short ride from my surfers shack accommodation tonight.

After leaving San Sebastian I followed a route through the city's port area, until reaching what I thought would be  bridge but ended up a little ferry. There were towns on either side of the crossing set with steep cliffs either side. The houses were ancient and had no doubt witnessed many who have passed through for centuries. The ferryman was really interested in my journey and where I came from, he even gave a weather forecast for my trip north!

Then followed this lovely cobbled street through tunnels and under houses which seem to be set in the cliff. Eventually it stopped and became a footpath along the shore and a steep concrete road up into hills. Yes, you guessed it, up was the route. Up for 4 miles in fact, initially bikepushing up through stone paths, then after joining a road, slowly made my way over the 455 meter Jaizkibel summit. Stunning scenery with views back to the coastline I have travelled the few days, this time though accompanied by a squadron of turkey vultures. Near the summit they had roosting rocks and got a great view of them perched, chatting away at each other. 

What goes up must come down, and it was exhilarating. More cyclist names on the road so must be used in the tours. What took 2 hours to get up, took 20 mins to get down where my last Spanish Town this trip, Hondarribia stood. After grabbing some lunch bits it was another ferry that delivered me to France. In fact the border is in the middle of the river! Touchdown in France was the town of Hendaye.

After lunch on a wall over looking the ocean, and a chat to a german chap bikepacking, I followed the EV1, Euro Velo #1 route, to Biarritz. An undulating route, complicated by a road closure but nice, and different from last few days. First thing I have noticed are the dedicated cycle lanes, which I think will be a feature all the way to Caen. I stopped at a beach cliff top bar in Biarritz looking over the numerous surfers bobbing for waves. Apparently the town is a surfing mecca, it had that vibe. It explored the town and seafront. There was a TV show or movie being filmed as roads were closed, at one point I saw them filming a car scene, looked like Kojak's car with cameras arranged around the windscreen.

More cycle lanes to my digs tonight in Anglet. After sorting myself out and talking to Ruby & Helen, I decided to explore this place. Good choice. Heading back soon. Time to chill and get my head around tomorrow....

Tue 28th May, 6.20 pm at campsite near Vielle-Saint-Girons

Sitting on some wooden step for my pitch surrounded by a tall pine tree forest and the sound of birds chattering away. It's lively and warm, dappled sunlight through the trees. The ocean is about half a mile away, the campsite very quiet due to low season. It is idelyc. I visited the beach and although impressive, literally hundreds of miles of sand dunes and golden sand, my preference is the forest.

Today's cycle then was at times a  bike-packing time trial, and at other times like canal cycling. I am in the flat lands, but all traffic free and through forest, which as a hunch was once sandbanks, now reclaimed. The 50 mile route was broken in by the occasional town and open plain, but mostly it was cycle paths through forest. I totally lost all sense of direction and followed the Garmin turn by turn. I stopped at a town for a coffee in a cute farmers market, and again in a small town of Leon for an Orangina. It's more expensive than Spain for sure. 

I kept going expecting more towns and then, suddenly arrived at my campsite. Which is lovely I must admit. After pitching and doing some replaning for tomorrow I headed to the beach and paddled for an hour, then gave up. Just don't do beaches. I stopped at a nice bar for an 9 euro IPA !!! Then decided on finding a shop to cook for myself as its so much cheaper. So tonight I have hot dogs, baguette and dijon mayo. I actually really enjoy cooking simply like this outdoors. See how we go, but hopefully head out to see the sunset, should be good from this coastline.

Update 9am Wed 29 ... I did head out for a cloudy by colourful sunset, surrounded by people doing yoga. Followed by not the best night's sleep as the waves crashing kept me awake, but I didn't mind, it was nice to hear, plus as a bonus I got to see some pretty amazing stars. Change of plan as no campsites open where heading today, so got another Airbnb which has helped spread the distance from 80 today and 45 tomorrow to 56 and 64 respectively.

Wed 29th May, 8.50pm, Salles area

Where to start?.... An adventure in an adventure in an adventure... more about that later....

Today started off simple enough, after picking up pre-ordered Crossaint & Pain o chocolate, and consume the former, it was back on the forest train. This section of the cycleway was vast and enduring. 20 miles clicked by and I can tell you it all melded into one blob of a memory. I eventually came up for air at a path to a sand dune and beach, and what I guess was an old WW2 bunker. First time got any elevation for days, albeit 30ft, but could see scale of the forest and dunes. Coffee and Pain of chocolate consumed it was back on the EV1.

The scenery started to change to lakes and at one point I took advantage of the permanent sunloungers overlooking a lake. Quite busy with birdlife including some kites, which seemed weired why they would circle over water.

Next stop was lunch. Had a really nice lakeside fishy lunch,  it what I thought I ordered. As ever, expensive. Think I am living o  peanuts from La Rochelle onwards. Then went to town of Parentis for food stock up.

Now for the adventure. We'll that's this whole trip. The adventure in the adventure was choosing tonight's accomodation as it veered from my route big time. I was really time wise so had a lovely IPA at a bar in the town. Very Francias. Then time to shop. Shop at an Aldi. Yes, Aldi. Funny thing, I took my paniers with me in a trolley to keep them safe. At check out it caused a commotion because they thought I was buying them.... stocked up, I headed off per the Kamoot route.

All good. Long, long flat roads, but moving out of forest I to large farms. I later found out this was intensive maise farming for the far gous I industry. Not to mention the vineyards around Bergerac changing to Olives due to climate change. Riding through this area, initially on roads, then on sand tracks, only now as I write this do I realised reminded how our consumer demand changes the land. So much of it out of sight, out of mind. By luck or poor route mapping by Kamoot, now start my adventure in the adventure. I took a busy road (scary enough after recently traffic free bliss). Nearly knocked off twice by cars. I turned onto a track. Fine to start with but very sandy. I nightmare to ride. I came off at least once, but thankfully a soft landing. The area is full of lorries delivering compost to the fields where the maze grows. The lorries churn up the track... a recipe for ice skating on bikes. I eventually reached a big depot place where the lorry drivers seem to be based, said bonjour and cycled on to where my route said a track. Nothing! Just a ploughed field! Crap! What now?

Don't panic. Ask the locals! No option but to. So I gingerly rode back towards the lorry compound, a few lads were standing around chatting, having already exchanged bonjours. I took my phone out and pointed at the route. What followed next was hilarious. After using Google translate, gestures, smiles and Google maps, somehow we agreed a safe route. The 3 of them all had their own ideas, then another came in and a had an opinion. It was wonderful. These lovely guys could have told me to F-off, but they were all talking about the best route. They knew the area, I am so lucky for that. They were so kind and happy to help, eventually with the help of Google maps one of them set me a route. I wish I knew who they were so I could buy them a beer. Top chaps.

Hasten to add I took wrong path and they all hollered at mind head in hands. 

That was my only mistake, well almost. After a long long dusty track I came to a busy road. The sort of road you feel you shouldn't cy le on.. I went about 1 km to find I was off course... arghh

Mild panic starting to set in, as had no idea of how to rejoin route and weather turning. But after a correction and a retrace I found a track alongside the railway, traffic free. Happy days. This became a road and after about 5 miles a track.

The my route took me to a track o track off a road with a No Entry sign! I was not going to let that sign stop me. So now the adventure in the adventure in the adventure. After a little detour I was on the forest track. This time though they were very unused. I followed the Garmin like a lemming. Went wrong. Corrected. By now the track was a path, if that. It went on and on and on. Then only few hundred yards from a road I was trying to reach, in thick forest, the track was flooded. Too deep to cycle through. So, I unloaded the paniers and walked thought the woods. First attempt, wrong side! Second attempt, success. Retraced my steps and got the bike. This time carrying the bike through forest and swamp. After this I decide whatever the rest looked like I was riding through it. That's what I did. What a nightmare. My shoes and feet stunk of bog. But I made it to the road!!

So, after my adventure in an adventure in an adventure, I made it to my destination.

Since getting here the owners have been so nice. I even had an aperitif with them sharing stories and photos. I think I topped the ranks in terms of guest arrivals. Gagi and Luc are a retired couple. German/French heritage. It is like a small holding. They are very natural in their approach and were interested in my pal Martyn's Llama photes. They had older kids living in Europe, but this place is their love now and you feel it. So much so I could have spent the evening  chatting with them after having a drink beforehand with them I don't know ow any other host who has made me feel so at ease.

Been writing  loads. It was an epic though.

Thu 30th May, 7.55pm, Camping Laouba

Short entry tonight. 70 miles of flat, mostly traffic free into strong headwind. Knackered! Just eaten steak & cous cous with a drop of red after quick turnaround (tent up, showered etc) and visit to local town for beer and then food shop. Long day, tested body & spirit but did it. Early start tomorrow to make a 10am ferry 30km from here. La Rochelle and hopefully no headwinds beckon. Night....

Fri 31st May, 7.20pm, L'Academie de la Biere, La Rochelle

Made it to La Rochelle! Miles so far 425. To go 325. 

After another day of headwinds it's great to be at this pivot point of my journey as on Sunday I veer away from the Bay of Biscay coast, and head north east to Caen in a weeks time.

But for now, I celebrate. A fine large La Bete, amber wolf beer in this place which is top of the beer places for locals in town. Tucked away but made very welcome.

They day started with an early wake up call, which wasn't needed as all night I was in a semi awake/asleep state. Listening to crickets chirping and avoiding the urge for a pee. At some point there was a distant gun shot, followed by half an hour of dog barking. As I was now properly awake I gave in to my bladder, it was 2.30am. The stars were so vibrant. A chill in the air and dew on the grass. I couldn't get my eye in initially, then picked out the summer triangle of stars, made from Deneb in Cygnus, Vega in Lyra and Altair in Aquilla. I still remember the stars and constellations, they are a constant friend. 

Anyway I was up at 6.30 and started packing away. By 7.45 I was on the road. Apart from a really nice nature reserve and a modern resort it was another 22 miles of the same, with that headwind! I was aiming for the 10.30am La Verdon to Royan ferry. Made it in good time. A ferry always makes you feel like you are making progress. When this on is not running it is about a 80 mile detour in Bordeaux! 

Then it was a welcome change in scenery, but no headwind. Sand and forest and flat gave way to farmland and vineyards and undulations. I rode quite a few tracks like bridleways. Was really nice as felt like home. There was one bizarre moment, I was thinking how I had not seen any loose dogs. Plenty of them behind gates and chasing me behind fences. Just as I had the thought I was on a dirt track and approached this beaten up old shack, and suddenly about 20 chinaware like dogs came out of the shack. Little angry ankle biters. There was also a foaming at the mouth collie leaning out the shack with murder in its eyes, fortunately it did seem shackled. But the little nippers were going for it. I got bitten by a similar thing last year and wasted a day in A&E so was keen to avoid a repeat of that. I stayed on the bike but walked/pushed on foot trying yo keep them on one side. Went slowly and said Bonjour in a friendly voice. No one called them, so I slowly edged past the property and one by one they went back. One remained, so I started cycling and it chased me for a while and eventually gave up. 

I passed through Champagne and Roquefort, but saw very few vineyards and cheeses growing in the fields. From Roquefort is was a slow, long, headwind battering grind. 77 miles in total, into a headwind. My Garmin computer congratulated me for a personal best. I wanted to see if it had a headwind setting so it could be even more flattering to me.

I got to my AirB&B for 2 nights (did I say no cycling tomorrow!). An older couple, with no English were there to meet me. I had to call to say had arrived. Eventually we found each other. Got sorted out. Now I am here. Very very tired, buy gotta keep going. Not been to La Rochelle before and it looked very nice when I cycled through earlier.

Sat 1st June, 1.20pm, a bar in LaRochelle

Little update. Last night I wandered around, found a couple more craft beer bars and ended up eating chicken from fast food place down kebab alley. choose the one with more Deliveroo drivers. Ate under the harbour towers. Slept well.

This morning not had a dodgy tum, probably the chicken, but could just be last few days taking its toll. Feeling better now but taking it easy. I got out early and found the most fantastic market. In fact it spilled into the streets around a big indoor market. Loads of fish, prawns and crabs still alive on the displays. Colours and smells were invigorating.

Via Google translate I asked the elderly couple at the Air B&B if I could use their washing machine, they insisted on doing it for me so I bought them a bunch of Iris off the market. The look on their faces was so lovely and I got a huge hug. Nice moment. Back out now for rest of the day exploring, there is also a dance festival on today from 2pm, could get lively. 

Update @ 5.45pm

Certainly has got busy! Dance festival is lots of open stages spread around the town with everything from folk, to street dance to ballet. Audience participation encouraged, but I opted to watch, don't want to pull a hamstring! Sun has come and gone. Had simple lunch, tum feels better. Now visiting a few bars between dance fest stuff. Need to get some eats, then back to apartment for CL final. Have walked miles, but gotta make the most of it. Tired but happy.

Sun 2nt June, 7pm, Camping le Lac, Verruyes

On paper the biggest ride of the trip. 82 miles and loads of hills towards the end. First time to use the low gears since leaving Spain! Out of La Rochelle the route followed canals and rivers for 40 odd miles. It was nice to following, many straight bits but lots of wildlife and a constant splattering of anglers out doing each other with their gear. Most had multiple rods, some were half submerged in chairs, some were on shawn off ribs bobbing along. There were also many huts and houses along the route each with their own, lovingly maintained private angling spots. 

I reached a town, loads going on. It was the Olympic flame relay coming through later that day. Shame I missed it but did remind me of the 2012 Olympics and the flame coming through Brockenhurst. Big thing for a town to hold the honour. First bit of Olympic fever I have seen.

Then it was a series of towns divided by miles of farmland. The hills kicked in and the last 20 took forever.

The Sunday curse kicked in too. Like Spain, nowhere open! I didn't know the situation at the campsite so thought I better find somewhere. No joy until Veyyures itself, where a tabocco shop was open. It doubled as a simple supermarket. Bought some tinned food. Need not have bothered as now tucking into Burger & chips at campsite.

Sunday night. Out of season. Grey and cold. Surprised they opened, but grateful.

To bring everything up to date, after the last message yesterday I ended up buying some food after more wandering. Took it back to appartment, cooked and watched the CL final. Real won. More miles and smiles to be had.

Mon 3rd June, 8.47pm, CAMPING LE THOUET, just outside Montreuil-Bellay

Bang! Like a cannon every 10 minutes or so, breaks the silence of the birds singing. They're getting ready for bed and I should be too. Another long day, in fact, with bit extra to go into town for some provisions, I did more than yesterday both in term of miles and ascending. Not intentional. But now pleased that is the hardest 2 days of the trip done. I am now probable bit less than half way between La Rochelle & Caen. 

I got away by 9am, my mind doing everything to delay more cycling, probably a message from my legs & bum. But after a good sleep and a nice start to the day we were underway. Up, down, up, down, up, down... and so it went on. Had done over 2700 ft of climb by end, but no altitude, just lumps and bumps. What looks like a flat landscape actually hides pretty river valleys and gorgeous hamlets and towns, ancient and loved.

Weirdly my mind told me I was in Wiltshire or Hampshire until a electric pole, a town, a church came into view and these are not of the Southern England variety. Some of the architectural wonders were, well wonders. Parthenay, Airvault, Thouars and Montreuil-Bellay itself. Absolutely stunning. You could taste the history.

By chance an old friend of ours contacted me on Facebook as she noticed my route and now lives here. After a bit of a hunt I found Danielle with her other half John. Both cycling mad and moved here pre Brexit to run a gite and b&b business. Spent a really nice time with them catching up on last 20 years... we all met at anti natal classes. It was a gorgeous place, hard work for them and keeping them off their bikes, but that's the Ying & Yang of life I guess.

So, I think I can hear frogs along with the birds, I guess some are going to bed, some waking up. It's been a lively warm day (still a headwind.. grrrrh), but still now and comfortable temperature. Got some washing up to do, sunset soon, hoping for some good starts and a good kip. Shorter mileage next 2 days, some of Loire Valley and Angers awaits.

BANG... FFS hope that finishes soon. Might not be such a peaceful sleep...!!

Tue  4th June, 5.30pm, Camping Les Rives Mayenne, near Montreuil-Juigne

Well this is nice. Having a beers and a crisp on an outdoor sofa. Cycling dine for the day. Tent pitched. Showered. Shopped for dinner. It is not even 6pm!

Been a lovely days ride today starting off in vineyard country and monster looking pilons, then joined canals which connected with the Loire River. It is a beast of a river, so so wide and so far inland, could be forgiven it was a huge lake or a loch, but not with speed of the water. 

The cycle path ran along side the Loire Rive for a good 25 miles, passing through shared roads, shaded paths and fields. The water never far away. Eventually the The Loire joins The Maine at Bouchemaine, and the route turns from west to north to follow The Maine up through the vibrant city of Angers.

Traffic free and through nature reserves, at one point there was a viewing platform of hundreds of cormorant roosts. It was so noisy, constantly arguing with each other. The other wildlife spectacular were the frogs. One would start croaking, and that set another off, and another, and another. Like a mexican wave through a football stadium, the croaking made its way up and down the river side until they had said what they needed. Magical.

Angers was lovely. Busy city with its own tram system, so careful when cycling. Modern and old, a medieval chateau, or more like a castle dominates from high. Little roads leading up where you could loose yourself for hours. I read that this was the seat of the plantagenet royal line, and I quote "relating to the English royal dynasty which held the throne from the accession of Henry II in 1154 until the death of Richard III in 1485"... Then the modern, I already mentioned the trams which weave thir way up from the river to the old city, running alongside modern shops and commerce, all focused around an impressive main square with four sides of impressive buildings.

The shops proved useful as I hunted down a camping shop to see if they had any gas. They did and it was Jetboil brand, so means I can continue to live of pan fried steak... it hits the mark and saves so much money eating out. 

Then I made my way for another 10 mile to this place. I think I am lucky as the rivers are high and at one point a cyclist in front slammed his brakes on and turned around saying something in French to me. Soon found out the road was flooded. But being on the Boardy I got through easily. Only one point did my toes get wet, but it adds to the fun, especially when you are cycljng on a submerged road with crayfish swimming around your tyres.

After that it was simple, gentle river side paths, like riding the canals back home. So that's today done. Just going to chill and read my book I think. 

Update: Chilling out in an outdoor seating area at campsite. One other cyclist for company but was a bit of a wierdo, probably thought likewise. Went for a wonder after eating and got some good late evening pictures from a bridge, then visited the local pop up bar for a nightcap.

Wed 5th June, 6.40pm, Glamping in Laval

Wow it's "Scortchio!" Baking on the deck of my 35 euro tent shack... so nice to not have to set up tent, saved loads of time, still under canvass tonight but with a bed. I think I have earned it! Reading my book and listening to the frog colony down below, apparently they will get lively later as it's "love season" for them according to the campsite owner!

After a slow start this morning, due to running out of juice, I found a power point and let phone & garmin charge. Left about 9.30am and followed the canals all day. It was a really lovely cycle following the meandering waterway, past locks and towns. It was over 40 miles long and now seems a blur, but standout memories are the first dousing of rain all trip whilst riding (albeit for 30 mins)..., the size of the canal as you could fit over 8 of the Kennet & Avons canal width wise, the old boy anglers in their boats, the gorgeous weir / lock houses either side of the canal. This is how the levels are controlled. Each lock house diligently manned, well actually womanned. The chateaus and grand houses on either side of the banks, some up high on cliffs on the sections closer to Laval. Saw red and a black squirrels, kingfishers, egrets and heron.

Then Laval appeared, and my route took me through the old town, with its gothic medieval style houses and cobbled streets. Felt like the town in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang where the child catcher hunted! 

By contrast I then had to head through a busy modern area full of hypermarkets and impatient drivers, on to a very residential area until the camp site appeared, positioned on the edge of a lovely forest. There is a kids playground way down below in the valley with "musical" instruments, which sounds like some Pink Floyd would put out... but the bird and frog song are good blockers and no doubt will take over as the evening develops. Apparently, I will also hear a lit of owls tonight.

So I am fixed to my deck area of my glamping tent for the rest of the evening. Provisions sorted (having made a trip back to the hypermarkets), steak again for dinner... looks like a nice evening. 2 more days cycling left, think there is a 63 and 67 miler, so we'll under 200 now to the finish line....

Thu 6th June, 6.20m, The Old Bakery nr Dompierrre

80 years ago today this area would have been so differently, occupied and suppressed by the worst human kind has so far created. D-Day was starting, a turning point in World War 2. It was a sobering thought all day, how different it could have been, I doubt I would be doing this, the free world owes that generation, yet with today's world of madness suggest we have not learnt.

My day started at 4am, having a pee looking at the stars. A rich sky of delight. I left my glamping tent thingy open, was such a good, comfy nights sleep and yes, frogs signing and owls hooting. Was lovely. Up n out by 9.30 and back through the juxtaposed superstore estate next door, into Laval and recommenced the Francette route.

Now I have a big apology to make, I though I was on a canal, but it is the River Mayenne. Albeit controlled by humans with numerous weirs and locks. Still an amazing river and incredible how we have controlled it. The route was lovely like yesterday but with blue skies and sunshine. More ancient towns came and went and a coffee stop at Rochefort was never not going to happen. Eventually around midday I reached the town of Mayenne, the river still significant, but the paths veered away and after navigating busy roads the Francette settled back into itself on traffic free disused railway. This went on for miles taking the passenger through rich farmland with every variety of cow. This is big cheese country, also many signs for Calvados, or apple brandy for this is also cidra country.

The route then surprised the legs by going onto very undulating roads for 10 miles or so, lots of foxgloves, poppies and big daisies flourishing at the crop fields edge. Then it was back on the old railway until the town of Domfort popped up from no where. Like Glastonbury from the Somerset levels, just weird bit of geography. My route circumvented Domfort but it was the only place I could get my tea for later. See there I was again, pushing the bike up calf sinue stretching medieval streets. It was a good move, really interesting place to mooch around, plus it had a Carre Four, dinner sorted!

Then retracting the routes, this time enjoying the downs, it was back on the railway for 5 miles or so, through changing scenery of more rocky ground became gorges with fast running streams through them. Eventually it was my station stop, Dompierre, and a couple more miles bought me to the old bakery and it's garden sun trap. There is new bakery next door and they are baking tomorrow, so lots of activity tonight prepping for the bake.

Again, back to the start, none of this would have been possible if events 80 years ago went a different way. I think we owe it to use this free world and travel around it, environmentally in the best way of course, and learn from each other, skin and bons means we are all the same and should celebrate what we all have in common.

Fri 7th June, 12.20pm,  Pont d'Quilly

Enjoying taking my time today. After a chilled evening and sound sleep I sorted myself out for a ferry repack and moved on.

Last 25 miles have been the prettiest in France. I started on more old railway track with steams alongside and after 8 miles turned onto roads through farm fields, lots of pretty flowers and 50 50 of crops to cattle. 

Then I reached a town called , which was a medieval gem, the route took me right down through the middle of an ancient village set in a small dip with a mill at it center. Like a museum.

This soon became hills and gorges and climbs like I hadn't seen for weeks. I had entered Swiss Normandy. Very unexpected. At the top of the biggest climb was a viewing platform over the whole gorge. Incredible, I didn't know this existed so close to the channel. I might have to come back and explore it more one day!

An exhilarating downhill and then few undulations have led me here. Lunch. Crock messier and rhubarb juice.

Also starting to notice UK, USA and Canadian flags and bunting in the towns. Expecting this to get more and more as I get closer to the coast.

23.40pm departing on the ferry

Oh culture shock, so busy and so many people on this ferry. Must be D-Day celebration mop up. Still it is fun seeing all the army regalia being worn, driven and posed in.

From my last update, the ride continued to suprise. Lots of cliffs and gorges, more climbs and eventually it ebbed into rolling hills and I rejoined an old railway line. I stayed on this until out of nowhere Caen appeared. Unlike Angers and Domfort, Caen was flat, so it literally was on you before you knew it. In fact first contact was with a race course, literally on the edge of town, in the central park. I venture up cycle paths into a marina area and then onto the main cathedral and old castle area and old town. It was vibrant and buzzing, not what I was expecting. Never enough time, I moved on and followed the river down to Osterolm, passing Pegasus Bridge on route. Famous for playing an advanced role in D-Day, it was a mix of quiet reflection on one side of the bridge, and packed bars on the other side. 

Just 100 meters up from the bridge was a small moment to the Baily Bridge. It was used here for the first time in the war, and Churchill called it a game changer. Baily bridges were invented and produced not far from home. There must be so many stories untold about that time.

I was going to eat in a restaurant, but it was all a bit to much of an anti climax, so I found a Carre Four and got some snacks bits and headed to the beach.

And there it was. My destination, the end of the road, the start of the sea and my route back to Sway. 

I walked the bike on to the beach, it was vast, again all I could think of was events 80 years ago and what hell it would have been like. Now families are playing on the beach, couples picnicking and even horses being ridden through the wash. 

It is a gorgeous evening and one last treat was a sumptuous sunset on the sea. As if to say, over and out, France bowed out.

As I ride to the ferry I chanced upon the starting point of the Velo Francette, my companion for the last week. So nice to find this and take some pics to wrap things up. 

Merci beaucoup. Vive la 🇫🇷 

Thu 29 Jun ... Sway

So I have finally finished writing up the trip. Over 750 miles cycled and 61,452 ft climbed (and descended) which is 2.1 x Everests!

It was a great experience and I am very privileged to have done it. I can fully recommend Northern Spain and hopefully will be back one day.